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【印度洋上的眼淚，斯里蘭卡】

第一次去斯里蘭卡是2017年，從馬來西亞吉隆坡搭乘廉價航空亞洲航空到可倫坡獨自旅行，單程機票才1640台幣。共十四天逆時鐘轉了一圈，在南方的加勒古城差點熱到中暑，高山茶園區的哈普特萊差點冷到感冒，在巴杜勒定做了人生第一套莎麗，在康堤湖邊被人稱讚斯里蘭卡小妞。過了幾年，我問爸媽要不要去斯里蘭卡，於是規畫了第二次的自助旅程，外掛三個拖油瓶，我爸，我媽，我阿姨，以及十包泡麵，然後剛好碰到了covid-19疫情爆發，旅途最後一晚被民宿拒絕入住，甚至差點被海關刁難到回不了家。

即使如此，還是很推薦斯里蘭卡。因為形狀像極了梨子，也有人說是眼淚，於是又得名「印度洋上的眼淚」。梵語古名叫Simhalauipa，意為「馴獅人」，又稱為獅子國。十八世紀由英國統治，正式改名為「Ceylon」，中文名為錫蘭，在1972年廢除君主制度，正式改名為「斯里蘭卡共和國」。不過早些年斯里蘭卡並不和諧，經歷了25年的內戰，坦米爾伊蘭試圖在北方建立獨立國家，最終在2009年宣告失敗，至此斯里蘭卡才有了統一。

為何斯里蘭卡又稱為佛國？其淵源從公元前兩百247年說起，印度孔雀王朝的阿育王派其子來島，從此僧伽羅人擯棄婆羅門教而改信佛教。據說公元四世紀時，印度王哥哈塞瓦為了避免佛牙舍利落入敵軍之手，於是讓艾瑪瑪菈公主將佛牙舍利藏在髮髻中夾帶到斯里蘭卡，至此之後佛牙舍利便為斯里蘭卡王權的象徵。也因為一海之隔，印度佛教被伊斯蘭入侵滅亡之際，卻在此保留了下來，目前斯里蘭卡有近八成的人都是信仰佛教，少數有印度教、伊斯蘭與基督教。

通常自助旅行到訪前，我都會做比較長時間的歷史功課，以免出遊到了當地會鬧了笑話，或是犯了當地禁忌。斯里蘭卡又稱為乾淨版印度，只有一海之隔的兩地有著相近的飲食、語言與生活文化，但比起髒亂不堪的印度街道，這裡簡直就是天堂。

斯里蘭卡的旅遊可以區分三個路線，分別為北方文化三角路線、高山茶園路線以及南方的海岸與野生動物路線。當時路上就有碰到背包客說：「如果你對歷史沒有興趣，建議你就別往北方走！路程顛頗就算了，去了更傷心。」我問：「為什麼阿？」他說：「導遊就跟你指著眼前廢墟說古城遺址。」倘若你對佛教及當地文化不理解，恐怕也只能落入走馬看花都不清楚去哪的窘境。有人建議直接去世界遺產-巨岩上的皇宮遺址獅子岩即可，最好是早上出發登頂，下午過熱，許多人都在攀爬過程中中暑。

中部山區高山茶園路線相對熱門，遊客可以從可倫坡搭乘火車到第二大城康提，這裡有著名的佛牙寺，相對可倫坡的煩躁奔忙，康提就透露出古城的悠哉與恬靜。從這裡可以購買車票到高山茶園區努瓦拉埃利亞、哈普特萊與埃拉，沿著火車窗景可以飽覽山脈壯闊美景與茶園風光，還可以選擇在茶園裡住宿一晚，一早吃著英式早餐配著錫蘭紅茶，好不愜意。

南部海岸線則有古城加勒與雅拉國家公園，建築在岩石上的加勒城堡是當初荷蘭人在原葡萄牙人所建城防基地上擴建而城，城內有著四百年的歐風建築，不管是小洋房還是鋪著石板的小巷，都讓人彷彿有穿越古今的感動。夕陽時分可以漫步古城海堤，遠望著印度洋。雅拉國家公園又稱為小非洲，在這裡輕而易舉看到大象、孔雀跟鹿，可以參加當地的一日旅遊團，搭乘四輪驅動的吉普車前往，只是注意天氣炎熱，最好多帶水跟電風扇。

斯里蘭卡是靠觀光為主的國家，除了豐富的自然山林，最讓人印象深刻就是當地人的熱情善良，幾乎人人都掛足了微笑，你走在路上都會有人前來詢問，最讓我深刻是經過某人舉辦婚禮，就被當成座上嘉賓。幾乎去過的人很難不愛上這個國家。
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這周 千萬別錯過 9/18 晚上8:00 直播 印度洋的眼淚 斯里蘭卡
【直播】9/18 9PM 斯里蘭卡 微笑獅子國

感謝 乾媽 斯里蘭卡 Spa Ceylon Taiwan
跨海贊助要送 #乳香青檸精油蠟燭（限量慶典版）
有聽才有抽
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「地獄空」攝影集即將在八月中元節前出版，由知名設計師與攝影家黃子欽設計，內附在下二位高徒精美繪製符咒、心經版畫書籤、愣嚴咒牌、尊勝咒語...等，感恩十方大德助印，希望疫情退散，平安喜樂，後記如下：

野放台灣五十餘年，貪狼獨坐，三方四正殺破狼格局，少年多舛，白手起家，隨展覽雲遊四海，如閒雲野鶴常持各類底片機流連廢墟、山川、宮廟忘返，遂設幻影堂自詡堂主，一日三省「凡所有相皆是虛妄」，常宅於暗房沖片放大通宵、鍾情黑白世界之單純，彩色照片俗世繽紛花俏做作甜美甚至比現實更現實故少拍也。知天命之年有餘，了悟人生一瞬、眨眼即逝，雖非仙人，亦無道骨，初聞離垢地生清淨心，但離華嚴「不動地」尚遠，待修持也。
2017年盛暑拍畢《巨神連線》，心律不整差點心肌梗塞向閻羅王報到，意識死神隨伺在側，人生苦短，如何了生脫死、盡斷煩惱、無所罣礙、遠離顛倒……總不得解，蒙釋迦摩尼佛開示飆淚三晝夜，聞佛法數載始知自我渺如塵埃，甚感慚愧。閒暇乃參訪名寺古剎，禮敬焚香佛陀菩薩羅漢諸神天仙王爺媽娘，台灣宮廟千奇百怪、宗派錯綜複雜（佛教、道教、一貫道、天主教、基督教、齋教、回教＆大同教、儒教鑾堂、天帝教＆天德教、慈惠堂＆勝安宮、軒轅教、道院、理教、萬國道德會、會靈山……）、神棍橫行（依人不依法、偶像崇拜、斂財、邪淫），因歷史變遷、社會動盪、政治鬥爭、意識形態等因素導致佛道混雜，但地獄造景稀少，後專注拍攝各殿閻王、判官、陰司、獄卒、七爺、八爺乃至一切罪人，各寺造景巧妙、耐人尋味，意境乖張溢於言表，造型扭曲非常人所能塑也，然匠心獨運、自成一格，專研西方藝術數十載方知真誠樸拙最美，絲毫不輸喬托（Giotto di Bondone，1267～1337）乃至米開朗基羅（Michelangelo Di lodovico Buonarroti Simoni 1475 ~ 1564）矣。

創立於1986年的石門金剛宮風景優美可眺望北濱，雖主祀四面佛，儒釋道眾神尊也不含糊，可過七星橋解厄、繞行五百黝黑羅漢敲鑼印心、跪拜亞洲最大臥佛涅槃像，安太歲自不在話下，甲子太歲爺雙眼長出手掌印象甚深，1994年經閻羅王指示廟公建造一條肚內設極樂世界及陰曹地府之神龍，行走暗黑通道觸動感應機關，只見面容猙獰受刑者呼天搶地喊冤、身邊盡是血肉糢糊殘肢敗屍腦漿塗地，十殿閻羅各司其職、威儀攝人。新北市林口區青嶺湖北文紫祥宮包公廟則以壁面彩塑地獄浮雕獨步全台，粉嫩色彩搭配卡漫風格，尤為造型簡直恐怖到可愛透頂，該廟主祀森羅殿閻羅天子包拯（包青天），陽世冤屈者可至此參拜祭解，求破懸案者眾，逢中元普渡皆以紙紮船渡亡魂至彼岸，全台唯一閻羅天子巨像籌備中，四周環繞墓地，適合修不淨觀也。台灣首尊彰化八卦山大佛旁南天宮（1971）地府則是首座電動地府，規模精小但驚嚇度破表，略顯破敗但五光十色仍蠻凶悍，出自已故台南大道長金登富之作，而電動神明起始可追溯至1960年代北港朝天宮。倒是嘉義水上鄉白人牙膏觀光工廠「戴相府」、「將軍府」設置十殿地府出乎意料之外，乾淨亮麗、ㄧ殿ㄧ間、簡單樸實。由高雄蓮潭龍虎塔龍口入內可見全臺唯一交趾陶地獄牆面，尊尊栩栩如生，續入龍身乃進聞聲救苦白衣觀音大士三十三化身浮雕隧道，造型設色甚為古錐。高雄大岡山超峰寺入口處「西方三聖蓮池海會」（阿彌陀佛、觀世音菩薩、大勢至菩薩巨像）旁設靜態十殿閻羅（1970年代初），雖略為陳舊然韻味猶存，續往上行可抵「證菩提道－釋迦如來應化事迹」雕塑園區，一攬世尊畢生精華。如來年邁時，琉璃國王為報長期被釋迦族輕蔑之傲慢心，世尊雖三次單獨伽跌坐 阻擋大軍進攻之路，但因緣果報無法逆轉，昔日婢女所生王子瞋恨無以復加，還是滅了祖國。自持神通第一目犍連不忍無辜百姓慘遭屠殺，遂以缽盛救度五百族人，最終卻化為血水，佛言神通廣大仍不敵千百劫業力，因緣果報屢試不爽。其母死後墜入餓鬼道飢餓難耐，目犍連遂展神通救渡，但所食尚未入口皆化為赤火，佛陀囑咐農曆七月十五日僧眾解安居自恣日，於盆中設甘露美食供養十方僧眾，因此超度亡母。後世「盂蘭盆法會」乃至「水懺法會」、「瑜珈焰口法會 」皆為消業障、斷塵垢之超渡儀軌，既渡亡魂也自懺悔。

台南麻豆代天府規模宏大、造型豔麗，不但可遊十八層地獄尚可逛天堂（1979年興建，1983年開放)，燈光絢爛、聲響駭人，獨自漫步宛如觀落陰、地獄走一回。先過「心頭山」、入「清心池」、進「陰陽界」、抵「交簿廳」、達「鬼門關」、遊「補經所」、探「枉死城」、行「奈何橋」，至ㄧ殿泰廣王照「孽鏡台」現造惡原形，睹抱柱、火床等小地獄。二殿楚江王開「陰查簿 」判案定奪，觀糞尿泥、餓鬼、舞池、寒冰、膿血、鞭韃、舌犁、劍葉、戟腹拋接、砧截……等小地獄。三殿宋帝王刑罰為倒吊、銅鐵刮臉、挖眼、搗樁、倒烤、吸血、穿肋、抽筋、蛆蛀等小地獄……兼遊「四生（胎、卵、濕、化）回魂府」。四殿五官王掌管腰斬、拔舌、沸湯、刺嘴、剝皮、箭樹、車崩、射眼……等十六小地獄。隨五殿森羅王豋「望鄉臺」回眸親人最終眼後觀擊膝、誅心、刀山、飛刀火石……小地獄。六殿卞城王別稱「大叫喚大地獄」，轄火牛、虎啖、噬腎、鉗嘴含鍼、釘喉、磨摧、砍頭……等小地獄。七殿泰山王為「熱惱大地獄」，窺烙手指、抽腸、頂石蹲身、油釜滾烹、割舌穿腮……等十六小地獄。八殿都市王掌管「大熱惱大地獄」兼火狗、鐵汁、鐵蛇、鋸劈斷肢、釘板、灸脊、鐵丸、磅秤……等小地獄。九殿平等王直轄十八層「阿鼻大地獄」，直透地心、內中陰森、不見五指、滿溢地漿，皆為極犯，另轄紫赤毒蛇鑽孔、夾頂、鐵鴉、針雨、蜂蠍……等小地獄。至十殿輪轉王上「觀生臺」、「轉劫所八司」（查驗司 、稽善司 、考過司 、恩怨司 、壽命司 、支配司、掌劫司 、授生司）後至「孟婆亭」飲「醧忘湯」忘盡前塵往事，依前世功德過金、銀、玉、石、木、竹六種橋樑至「轉輪臺（紫河車）」入六道輪迴轉生投胎。據《十八泥犁經》記載，人過世後七七四十九天為「中陰生」，經閻羅王審判善惡業力判定去留或懲罰百千萬劫，犯五逆重罪則墮入「無間地獄（阿鼻地獄）」永劫不復。地藏王乃幽冥教主，統轄十殿閻羅，逢三曹普渡便在各殿設「講道所」超度尚存善根之鬼魂。

人類居於五趣（阿修羅、人、傍生、餓鬼、地獄）雜居地五濁惡世之堪忍世界，犯十惡業（殺生、偷盜、邪淫、妄語、兩舌、惡口、綺語、貪慾、嗔恚、愚痴）者必墮三趣惡道。如何出「三界」（欲界、色界、無色界）二十八天？凡人無此意識，別說能破「十二因緣」（無明、行、識、名色、六入、觸、受、愛、取、有、生、老死）還滅門，更別想斷除「四聖諦」（苦、集、滅、道）集地八十一品見惑與八十八使思惑（五利使-身見、邊見、邪見、見取見、戒禁取見、五鈍使-貪、瞋、癡、慢、疑），了悟「五蘊」（色、受、想、行、識）本空、「十二入」（眼、耳、鼻、舌、意、色、聲、香、味、觸、法）空、「十八界」空，破俱生我執與分別我執、法執甚至空執，生十一處「善心所」（信、精進、慚、愧、無貪、無瞋、無痴、輕安、不放逸、行捨、不害），降二十六處「惡心所」（貪、瞋、癡、慢、疑、惡見、忿、恨、覆、惱、嫉、慳、誑、諂、害、憍、無慚、無愧、掉舉、惛沉、不信、懈怠、放逸、失念、散亂、不正知），須知善根斷盡則陷永劫輪迴、無垠轉世之苦。

地獄可能空滅嗎？若地獄空乏人間多鬼怪，地獄淨空世間何嘗非淨土？若能證空性何處現地獄？

地獄曠古來便廣泛流傳各部族間，老死生滅為自然運行之基礎、宇宙意識之核心，然今文明昌盛如咱城邦並非慾望消弭之所，惡性所及實無可根除，礙於憲法國家法律社會軍隊企業公司學校家庭團體之層層束縛不亞於十八層，乃遁於壓抑、束己情懷，暗埋心底、日久貪嗔痴慢疑怨噌會疊穢。而六塵未熄，心多妄念，妖魔鬼怪魑魅魍魎孤魂閃靈出沒於荒郊乃至人間，會靈於曠野密林以增性靈乃出世高人修煉之舉，我等凡人擅闖宛如迪士尼般之人造地獄，三魂七魄尚不足以出竅，驚邪恐怖淒厲猙獰倒滿足了自以為是的慚愧，豈不謬哉？

病毒肆虐年半有餘，全球確診者逼近一億八千萬，枉死者近四百萬，堪比戰爭規模，望眾生發慈悲心、令往生者安息、善待其他物種、平等有情眾生。地獄本空，唯妄念生起一切羨慕嫉妒恨而地獄現前。盡以此書作為世界新冷戰獨裁者、超限戰者、暗網駭客、陰險狡猾冷嘲熱諷落井下石者之良知備忘錄矣。

姚瑞中寫於2021年端午節

Postscript

I have been living recklessly in Taiwan for more than fifty years. According to Zi Wei Dou Shu (Purple Star Astrology), Tan Lang is the sole star in my house of Self. This star, which represents xxx, forms an equilateral triangle with that star Qi Sha and Po Jun on the square chart and constitutes a Sha Po Lang pattern. The pattern indicates a kind of turbulence and change, a life of wandering with ups and downs and it tells a lot about my life. After my ill-fated youth, I started from scratch and traveled around the world with exhibitions that I participated. Like a flaneur, I wandered around ruins, nature, and temples with every type of film camera obliviously. Thus, I founded the Hall of Illusion and claimed to be the master of the hall. Several times a day, I pondered a quote from the Diamond Sutra, “Everything with form is unreal.” In addition, I usually stayed in the darkroom developing film and enlarging those negatives overnight. However, I treasured the simplicity of the black and white world. The earthly, gaudy, garish, phony and pleasing qualities within colored photos make the images even more realistic than the real world. It is not my cup of tea, so I seldom took colored photos. In Confucian thought, the age of fifty marks the stage knowing the mandate of Heaven. I am now at my fifties and realize how ephemeral human life is. However, I am not an immortal, nor having sagelike characteristics. I just learned that the stage of stainless (the second bhūmi) and develop a pure mind that is free from doubt and defilement. However, I’m still far from the immovable state and need to practice.

In the summer of 2017, after filming the work Incarnation, I experienced a severe heart rhythm problem which almost triggered myocardial infarction and could have killed me. Consequently, I realized that death was waiting for me and the life is too short to figure out how I can liberate myself from the cycle of Birth and Death. I couldn’t comprehend how to be free from all afflictions and worries and how to avoid delusive ideas. I wept for three days and nights after being enlightened by Shakyamuni Buddha. Up to the moment, I felt ashamed that I failed to realize that the self is as insignificant as dust after these years learning and practicing Buddhism. Since then, I have visited famous temples and monasteries in my spare time, worshiping Buddha, Bodhisattvas, arhats, and all the deities and immortals. Taiwan’s temples are myriad with a enormous number of sects, including Buddhism, Taoism, Yiguandao, Catholicism, Christianity, Chinese religions of fasting, Islam& Baháʼí Faith, Confucianism, Tiandiism& Tian-De Teachings, Xiwangmu cult, Yellow Emperor Sect, Precosmic Salvationism, Liism, World Wide Ethical Society, séance cult, etc. Some people even claim that they can mediate communication between the deities or spirits of the dead with human beings, having their believer rely on themselves instead of the orthodox dharma or dogma and pay excessive respect and admiration for the mediums or objects, accumulating wealth through such an unfair means or even harassing their believer sexually. Due to Taiwan’s historical changes, social turbulence, political struggles, and ideological issues, Buddhism and Taoism are somehow mixed. However, there are few emphases on the concept of the hell. As I took photographs of Yama of each court, judges, wardens of the underworld, jailers, General Fan and Hsieh (the ghost escorts) and all sinners, I found few temples cleverly created hellish scenes that are intriguing, exaggerating, and extraordinary. However, the creations are unparalleled unique. I have been studying Western arts for decades and then I came to realize that simplicity makes the most beautiful works of art. These hellish scenes can even compete with works of Giotto di Bondone (1267-1337) and Michelangelo Di lodovico Buonarroti Simoni (1475-1564).

Jingang Temple Shimen District, founded in 1986, overlooks the beautiful North shore. Although the temple is mainly dedicated to Phra Phrom (the Thai representation of Mahabrahma), spirits of Confucianism, Buddhism, and Taoism can also be founded in the temple. The worshipper can go cross the Seven Star bridge to relieve bad luck, walk along the five hundred arhat statues and knock on the gong to affirm one’s Buddha nature. Furthermore, the worshipper can also prostrate themself before Asia’s largest statue of Buddha in Nirvana (the Reclining Buddha statue) and pacify the Taoist Tai Sui deity of the year. I was impressed by the Jia-Zi Tai Sui General that a pair of palms grow out of his eyes. In 1994, the biō-kong (the person taking charge of the temporal affairs of a temple) received a divine inspiration from Yama (the King of Hell) that he had to build a sacred hall in the shape of a divine dragon, with the interior designed according to the World of Ultimate Bliss and the Underworld. When the visitor walks in the dark hallway, they will see the tortured people (dioramas, of course) scrunching their faces and crying bitterly and loudly in excessive grief as the visitor triggers the mechanism. One will even find them in the midst of flesh, body liquid and blood, mutilated limbs, and rotten corpses. While each of the ten Yamas are focusing on their own duties, showing their sacred dignity that collect visitors’ attention. The Baogong Temple in Linkou District, New Taipei City exclusively features colorful depiction of hellish scenes in relief in Taiwan. With its pastel shades and cartoon-like style, the relief is both grotesque and adorable at the same time. This temple is dedicated to Bao Zhen (also known as Justice Bao) representing the incarnation of Yama. Living people who have been treated unjustly can come worshipping Bao Gong and receive exorcism. Therefore, many people come here for seeking to solve unsolved cases. In Zhongyuan Festival (the ghost festival), the temple will burn the Zhizha (paper craft) boat to ferry the ghosts to the other shore, which is the shore of enlightenment. The only giant statue of Yama in Taiwan is still in the making. The temple is surrounded by a cemetery, suitable for meditating on the loathsomeness and impurity. Nantian Temple (1971), located next to the Eight Trigram Mountains Buddha in Changhua, features the first animatronic underworld. Despite the small size, the animatronic underworld is intensely shocking. Though it’s slightly worn, the colorful dioramas are still brutally ferocious. The creator was the late venerable Dao Zhang (Taoist priest) Jing Deng-fu while the origin of animatronic deities can be traced back to the 1960s Beigang Chaotian Temple. On the contrary, the Whiteman Toothpaste Tourism Factory in Shuishang Township, Chiayi, features ten Yamas with individual booth. The place is unexpectedly clean and polished yet keeps a simple and modest tone. Then, the Dragon Pagoda of the Dragon and Tiger Pagodas at Lotus Lake in Zuoying, Kaohsiung, holds the only relief of hellish scenes made of Kochin ceramic. All the figures are vivid and life-like. If one goes further into the pagoda, they will see a relief tunnel of the thirty-three incarnations of the white-robed form of Guanyin (Avalokiteśvara) on a white lotus, with a lovely and interesting design. Another Hall of Yama is built in the 1970s next to the entrance of Dagangshan Chaofeng Temple, located in the Alian District of Kaohsiung. Visitors will also see three statues of the Three Holy Ones of the Western Pureland (Amitābha, Avalokiteśvara, Mahāsthāmaprāpta) which assemble at a lotus pond. Although the hellish scene looks somewhat antiquated, you may still find its previous charm. If one goes further, they will reach the sculptural garden of “Attaining the Bodhi Way: the Incarnation of Sakyamuni Buddha,” where the visitor can see the essence of Bhagavato’s (meaning the Blessed one, one of the common epithets for Buddha) life. When Tathāgata (another epithet for Buddha) was old, the king of Kosala wanted to avenge the arrogance of the tribe of Shakyas who had long despised him, regarding him as a son of a maiden. Although Buddha has sat in lotus position alone three times to stop the army from attacking his tribe. However, one can never reverse the cause and following karma. The prince born of a maiden was so furious that he eventually destroyed his homeland. Maudgalyāyana (one of the Buddha’s closest disciples), who is said to have had supernatural abilities that surpassed the other disciples, could not bear to see the slaughter of innocent people. Thus, he saved five hundred people of his tribe with a pātra (an eating utensil of Buddhist monks). Unfortunately, everything he did was in vain, those who were saved eventually turned into a puddle of blood. The Buddha said that the supernatural abilities cannot surpass the power of karma. The cause and effect work all the time. When Maudgalyāyana’s mother fell into the path of hungry ghost, he used his supernatural abilities to save his mother from hunger. However, all the food turned into fire before being fed to his mother. Later, the Buddha commanded the monks to put nectar and dishes in a basin on the 15th day of the seventh month in the lunar calendar for the monks from all directions to free his mother from reincarnation. In later times, the Ullambana Dharma Service, the Compassionate Samadhi Water Repentance, and the Yoga Collection for Feeding the Searing Mouths Dharma Service are rituals to eliminate karmic hindrance and to cease to worldly delusions. Through such practices, one can free the dead as well as confess their repentance.

Madou Daitian Temple is a magnificent and colorful temple in Tainan. Not only can the worshippers visit the eighteen levels of Hell but also the Heaven (it was built in 1979 and inaugurated in 1983) here. The lighting and sound effects are stunning and frightening. When walking alone in the space, one may feel like taking a Guan Luo Yin trip (a Taoist necromancy which leads people’s spirits to hell and communicate with the dead ones) to visit the underworld prison. Before arriving the first court of the underworld, the visitor will walk through the Mountain of Heart Summit, the Pure Heart Pond, the Frontier between the Living and the Dead Realms, the Soul Registry Hall, the Portico of Demons, the Center for Complementary Teaching of Canonical Books, the Citadel of Premature Death, and the Bridge of Vanity. When one arrives at the first court, they will see King Chin-guang, who is in charge of the court, using the Mirror of Retribution to show the earthly form of evil creatures and also witness the sub-hell of Pillar-Holding and Fire Bed, etc. At the second court, King Chu-jiang collates the register of sins the souls of the dead have committed to impose the punishments. Here, you will see the sub-hell of Excrement and Urine, Hungry Ghost, Burning Dance Floor, Ice, Pus and Blood, Whipping, Tongue-Raking, Sword Blade, Stomach-Piercing, Chopping, etc. Next, the dead at the third court, ruled by King Song-di, will receive the punishments including inversion tortures, face-skinning with steel and copper knife, eye-wrenching, pounding, blood-sucking, rib-piercing, roasting, tendon-taking, being eaten by maggots. The visitor can pay a visit to the Palace of Soul-Resuscitation for the Four Forms of Creatures (birth from an egg, birth from a womb, birth from moisture, and birth by transformation). King Wu-guan is in charge of the fourth court. There are sixteen sub-hells at the fourth court including Waist Chop, Tongue Removal, Boiling Pond, Mouth-stabbing, Skin-peeling, Sword Tree, Burning Wheels and Cart, Eye-shooting, etc. Next, at the fifth court, sinful souls are allowed to ascend the Tower of Hometown-Viewing to take a final look of their family. The visitor will witness sub-hells of Knee-striking, Heart-slicing, Blade Mountain, Flying Swords and Burning Stones, etc. The King of Bian City takes charge of the sixth court, which is also known as the “Great Hell of Screaming,” with sub-hells including Fire Cattle, Tiger-Biting, Kidney-Eating, Mouth-Poking, Throat-Nailing, Iron Mill, Decapitation, etc. The King of Tai-shan is in charge of the seventh court, the “Great Hell of Heat and Fire.” The sixteen sub-hells at this court include Finger-Searing, Bowel-Hauling, Stone-Bearing, Boiling Oil, Tongue-Removal and Cheek-Piercing, etc. Next, the King Du-shi is in charge of the eighth court, the “Great Hell of Intense Fire and Heat,” and the sub-hells including Fire Dogs, Molten Iron, Iron Snakes, Dismemberment, Steel Spikes, Burning-Marrow, Iron Ball, Scale, etc. The ninth court is ruled by the King Ping-deng. It is known as the biggest court, Avici Hell (the Hell of Incessant Suffering), which if the lowest level of the hell realm and the interior is gloomily and terrifyingly dark. Those who committed the most serious evil deed will be sent to the Avici Hell. Sub-hells such as Poisonous Snake, Brain-Removal, Crow-Gnawing, Raining Needles, Wasps and Scorpions are included at this court. After arriving the tenth court, ruled by the Great King of the Reincarnation Palace, one can visit the “Observatory of Life on earth” and the “eight bureaus of the Reincarnation Palace” (including the Bureau of Judicial Control, the Bureau of Good-Actions, the Bureau of Bad-Actions, the Bureau of Debts, Gratitude, and Vengeance, the Bureau of Longevity and Destiny, the Bureau of Familial Ties, the Bureau of the Reincarnated, and the Bureau of Birth). The sinful one will be sent to the Pavilion of Mengpo and made to drink the Soup of Forgetfulness to forget all past affairs. According to the sinful one’s merits of previous life, they will go across one of the six bridges (gold, silver, jade, stone, wood, bamboo) to the “Reincarnation-Wheel (Wheel on the Crimson River).” Finally, one is able to reborn in the six realms. According to the Aṣṭadaśa nāraka sutra ( the Eighteen Hells Sutra), after one passes away, they will enter an intermediate and transitional state between death and rebirth, known as antarābhava in Sanskrit, for forty-nine days. The being will be evaluated by Yama, who will decide if one should get reborn or get punished at the hell. Those who committed the Five Grave Offenses (killing one’s father, killing one’s mother, killing an Arhat, shedding the blood of a Buddha, and creating a schism within the community of Buddhist monks and nun who practice for attaining enlightenment.) will be sent to the Avici Hell and stay there eternally. Kṣitigarbha is the Lord of the Nether World, ruling the ten court of Hell. The lord will set up the “Hall of Teaching” at each court to salvage those sinful ones who still obtain few merits at the offering rituals.

Human beings live the Sahā world (sahāloka in Sanskrit, meaning “endurance of suffering,” a concept of mundane world in Mahāyāna Buddhism) where they share with other reincarnations (including beings of the hells, of the preta, and of malevolent nature spirits) with five turbidities (the Kalpa turbidity, the view turbidity, the affliction turbidity, the living beings turbidity, and the life turbidity). Those who commit the ten evil deeds (killing, stealing, adultery, lying, using immoral language, slandering, equivocating, coveting, anger, and false views) must fall into the three evil paths (animals, preta, and hell). However, how can one escape from the three realms/ twenty-eight heavens (including the six heavens of the desire realm, the eighteen heavens of the form realm, and the four heavens of the formless realm)? Worldly people who don’t have such an awareness cannot leave the cycle of the twelve nidanas (meaning causes or motivations), let alone eliminate the eighty-one afflictions (that have been produced due to misunderstanding regarding reality) and the eighty-eight illusions (including five afflictions of advanced practitioners, also known as five views: view of self, extreme view, evil view, view of attachment to views, and view of morality; and five unintelligent temptations: desire, anger, stupidity, arrogance, and doubt) of thought within the three realms and four Arya satyas (noble truths, including suffering, arising, ending, and path). They cannot realize that the essence of the five skandhas (referring to aggregates of clinging, including the matter of form, sensation, recognition, mental formation, and consciousness) , the twelve ayatana (meaning sense base, including six internal bases: eye, ear, nose, tongue, body, and mind and six external bases: visible objects, sound, odor, taste, touch, and mental objects), and the eighteen dhātavah (meaning compositional elements of human existence, including six consciousness, six faculties, and their objects) are the emptiness and the void. Furthermore, they cannot dispel the two reasons for clinging to the idea of the self and the attachment to elemental constructs and even believe in the two (false) tenets that that karma and nirvana are not real and that the ego and phenomena are real. As a consequence, they fail to develop the eleven wholesome mental factors (faith, energy, conscience, being ashamed, non-attachment, non-aggression, non-delusion, calmness, equanimity, conscientiousness, and non-injuriousness) and cease the sixteen unwholesome mental factors (desire, greed, anger, delusion, arrogance, doubt, wrong view, wrath, enmity, hypocrisy, vexation, jealousy, parsimony, deceit, flattery, harming, ambitiousness, stupidity, lacking of faith, idleness, being unrestrained, forgetting, distraction, non-discernment, ). One must bear in mind that once all our virtuous roots are discontinued, they will be trapped in the never-ending reincarnation and the suffering of infinite continuity.
Is it possible that the hell will be empty one day? If the beings in hell will become extinct while evil spirits inhabit the mundane world, the world could be considered as a pure land. If we could witness the nature of the void, then hell will exist no more.
Since ancient times, the concept of hell has been widely spread among all tribes. Aging, death, beginning, and end are the basis of nature and the core of cosmic consciousness. However, the prosperous civilization as our island is not a place where desire can be eliminated. It’s impossible to eradicate evil nature. Since fetters brought by the constitution, the state, the law, society, the military, corporations, schools, families, and groups are not less than the eighteen levels of hell, the mortals repress themselves, bury their feelings. Day after day, greed, anger, stupidity, arrogance, doubt, and resentment are stacking. However, since the six dust (visible objects, sound, odor, taste, touch, and mental objects) has not yet been extinguished, people in the mundane world are still full of delusions. The demons, devils, evil spirits, and the wondering dead exist in the wilderness, while only advanced practitioners with transcendent would attempt to make contact with the dead in the wasteland and forest. Worldly people like us trespass in Disneyland-like man-made hell. It is absurd and ridiculous that the hellish scenes cannot stop us from perpetrating evil deeds, but the horrific and cruel scenes yet satisfy our self-righteous shame.

The pandemic has been boiling over for more than a year and a half. The number of infected patients worldwide is nearly a hundred and eighty million, and the death toll has risen to four million, which is equivalent to a war crisis. I hope that we can all be compassionate, give peace to the dead, treat all sentient beings well and equally. The hell is innately empty; however, deluded and misleading thoughts would give rise to all jealousy and hatred and then manifest the hell before us. This book merely serves as a memorandum of conscience for dictators of the world’s new cold war, supporters of unrestrained warfare, dark web hackers, and those who are cunning and contemptuous and maltreat others when knowing they have problems.

June 2021,

Yao Jui-chung

【 市民排隊搶購《蘋果》告別號 】
IG版本：https://bit.ly/2SoBrCd

壹傳媒於周三（23/6）下午突然宣布今天（24/6）出版最後一份《蘋果日報》 （https://bit.ly/3d5IEy8） ，並以破紀錄刊印100萬份，寫下本地新聞媒體與港人爭取民主的歷史一頁。

自凌晨開始，大批市民於多區報攤等候買報，其中旺角亞皆老街與西洋菜街南交界的報紙檔是最早到貨的一戶，凌晨一時半已經有《蘋果》發售，逾百人由凌晨十二時許已開始排長龍，龍尾更一度延至女人街（通菜街）和山東街，現場目測達數百人，有市民表示已等候超過一小時仍未能付錢買報。而在該報攤旁則擺放了大量《蘋果》，為數多達一板貨（圖二），好些顧客一次過購買多份甚至數十份。為捕捉歷史一刻，大批傳媒於報攤外採訪，場面墟冚。

天光後，不少上班的市民陸續到便利店和報攤搶購《蘋果》，部份地區一度斷貨，及至中午後再補貨，大批市民冒雨輪候購買。截至下午5時半，記者仍於上水石湖墟見到有報攤出售《蘋果》告別號，據知粉嶺聯和墟依然有貨，但其他地區已找不到，據商業一台《在晴朗的一天出發》fb專頁 （https://bit.ly/2SVvZqO） 指：「啱啱從蘋果日報知情人士得知，今日印刷嘅100萬份蘋果日報最終章大體上已全部賣出，亦都唔會再加印。小編經過旺角多個報紙檔，負責人都話冇晒蘋果，有報紙檔尚餘少量前幾日嘅舊報，市民都照買可也。」而《蘋果》執行總編輯林文宗回覆《立場新聞》查詢時引述發行部回應，指今日100萬份《蘋果》已悉數出售，不會加印。

（24062021）

#蘋果日報 #壹傳媒 #旺角 #游大東影視筆記 #游大東

遠離藥房街及水貨客，一個有24年歷史的石湖墟市政街市，算是區內最能尋回民生味道的地方。

走上滿滿人潮的街市一樓，是尋找蔬菜的寶地，皆因單是菜檔已有超過二十多檔。當中佔三個鋪位，全街市內最大型菜檔潤澤，更是無人不曉的番薯專賣店。檔主是人稱佘太君的劉秋琴，八十年代已在上水舊墟經營菜檔，到1994年遷入市政街市，已擺檔賣菜三十年。

十多年，前面對街市裏菜檔檔口多又競爭大，為突圍而出，看準了番薯愈來愈受歡迎的熱潮，慢慢發掘不同番薯品種放在檔口內售賣。「我們常常到聯和墟菜欄取貨，欄口的人問：有番薯你試不試？好吧！取一些試試看好不好賣，想不到銷路很不錯。」佘太君說。

至今檔口已有十多款不同產地品種的番薯，本地與中國的有七八款，還有外國貨，像是印尼、日本、澳洲及越南等。因為每款番薯都必會試清楚味道，十多年下來，佘太已變成番薯專家，對不同番薯的產地、味道、質地如數家珍，只要告知想怎樣吃，煲糖水或燒烤或蒸，佘太君都會有好推介。番薯購回來後，佘太君都會細心處理，把不優質的丟掉，整理乾淨再整齊地分門別類排列，「客人吃過覺得好，覺得值得買，人又老實，番薯又優質，就能吸引多點顧客來關照。」佘太君說。


番薯以外，同時有售煲湯料，像野生粉葛、竹芋、牛大力、土茯苓、紅菜頭、粟米鬚、石馬蹄、栗子、甘蔗、青紅蘿蔔、茅根、牛蒡等等。全部都會去殼去皮斬件，買回家只需清洗一下就能熬湯，「告訴我多少人喝，想止咳潤喉清熱或是要怎樣的功效，我就會介紹給他們。像現在這天氣要喝潤湯，就可以熬淮山栗子海竹及龍眼肉，這個效果很不錯，夠滋潤。」佘太君說。

潤澤菜檔
地址：上水智昌路13號石湖墟街市一樓S249、S250及於263號檔口
營業時間：7am-7pm

採訪：劉明慧
攝影：周義安

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上水Sheung Shui位於香港新界北區西部，是香港最北面的主要市鎮，也是粉嶺／上水新市鎮的一部分。上水一帶原為農田，於1980年代起發展為現代化新市鎮，區內住宅和商業區以石湖墟和港鐵上水站一帶的市中心發展，是上水人口最密集的地區，也是北區的主要商業經濟中心，昔日的農田現只可在市中心北部，西南部等村落找到。上水因靠近中國大陸邊境，為大陸居民進入香港的首站，因此區內不論假日均有大量深圳一帶自由行旅客和水貨客在區內消費和從事水貨活動，使到區內人流和商業活動增加，為區內居民正常生活造成滋擾，上水的區內民生店鋪和小店都變成了藥房，而政府亦無積極解決居民需要，因此曾觸發多次示威而表達不滿。上水與粉嶺、沙頭角、打鼓嶺組成了北區，其中上水和粉嶺已發展成為粉嶺／上水新市鎮。上水一帶以低地和丘陵為主，高山不多。根據香港古物古蹟辦事處出版的《香港文物》，上水區內的上水華山曾出土新石器時代及兩漢時期的文物。而根據《北區風物志》（1994年）記載，上水及粉嶺一帶古稱「雙魚市」，因上水北面有一條「雙魚河」。自廖族於元末由福建遷來廣東南部之後，子孫漸漸散居於今新界橫眉山、嶺下、小坑、雙魚、福田、上水一帶，並建成村落。傳至對風水有認識的七世祖廖南沙，倡言必須聚族而居，後代子孫方可昌盛。乃根據風水學說追尋「龍脈」，選定龍口地形像鳳之處，合力鑿池（即護城河）築城，建成「圍內村」（今上水鄉老圍）；號召廖氏三房子孫盡徙圍內居住。由於圍內村立於梧桐河之上，廖氏族人便稱其為「上水鄉」，漸漸「上水」便成了附近一帶地方的名稱。上水與粉嶺、打鼓嶺和沙頭角同屬於1979年成立的北區行政區。並在1980年代開始發展現代化新市鎮。上水發展主要是在港鐵上水站一帶的市中心，由附近屋邨前往鐵路車站一般都在15分鐘步行時間內。昔日，附近村民會集中在石湖墟進行交易。雖然現在上水已經發展成為新市鎮，但由於石湖墟鄰近鐵路車站及巴士總站，所以並沒有因為發展而衰落，人流反而更多。尤其自由行政策後，經常有自由行旅客和水貨客往來上水及深圳購買日用品和走運水貨。古洞不但是地區名稱，亦是一條村。在青山公路旁有古洞村公所。古洞村不是原居民村，大部分村民在1949年前後，從內地逃難而來，因親戚朋友的關係，定居古洞村。這位置一帶又稱石仔嶺。有那裡開廠的人表示稱為石仔嶺是由於挖到地下深處，滿地都是石仔。泥不夠肥沃作耕作。沿河上鄉路一直北行，至河上鄉排峰路交界轉入河上鄉排峰路直上，便可到達河上鄉。村公所旁邊是鄉村式酒樓，成為了村民飲茶及的士司機吃午飯休息的地方。從前由於古洞是墟市，曾有四、五間酒樓。石仔嶺花園 位於新界上水古洞附近位置，前身是英軍軍營，後來被改建成多幢 安老院 舍，由於環境清幽，因此不少郊遊人士都會到來稍息，成為了該處的一個景點 。石仔嶺花園有古洞「老人村」之稱、由前英軍石仔嶺軍營改建的石仔嶺花園，園內有十六間樓高兩層合共廿五棟安老院舍，已有十六年歷史，有近一千二百長者入住，但因政府發展新界東北而面臨「滅村命運」。

清晨六時半。天空漸漸變成了魚肚白色。街上謐靜。尋常人仍在睡夢間。
但火炭工廠內的順香園，早已是沸沸揚揚。做餅的一天，掀幕了。
機器的摩打聲。油炸的吱吱聲。手起刀落的切割聲。一切聲音，從角落發出。探頭一看，是一片片閃耀的黃金馬仔。是香港僅剩的手工馬仔。是大陸、機器、潮流，永遠取替不了的味道。

順香園已有35年歷史，是香港碩果僅存的唐餅工廠。規模不大，樣樣遵照傳統，老闆馬馳不但靠此養家餬口，更漸漸做出一款生招牌——馬仔。年復年，月復月，傳統手作馬仔工場，一間間的被淘汰，惟有它，寶刀未老，老馬識途，愈做愈是好。

世有伯樂，然後有千里馬。馬馳的伯樂，是師父楊煒明。馬馳人稱「草蜢仔」，他於1975年入行，在九龍城寨的麵包廠學師，先做麵包，後轉做馬仔，今年已經59歲，踏入退休年齡，但為了心愛的馬仔，手不停，心不累。「我好鍾意食馬仔，鍾意到……唔敢食，因為一食就會停唔到。」


每天清晨六時，草蜢仔是順香園最早回來的員工，因為做馬仔工序繁複，需時甚長。他先打麵粉，壓薄，然後用手切條，切成粉粒。之後會把粒粒倒進油鑊裏，火候要控制精準，火太慢，就不鬆化，火太猛，口感會太脆，爽而鬆，就完美，每一炸，都是經驗之談。

這邊廂炸完，就要開始着手煮糖膠，用麥芽糖混砂糖，分量隨天氣而變化。像這幾天潮濕，要放少點麥芽糖，否則太黏口。煮完，撈糖，把糖均勻黏在粉粒上，最考力度，見草蜢仔紮起馬，汗流浹背，就知道殊不簡單。最後堆壓，用陰力把馬仔壓成一塊塊，大功告成，歷時差不多三小時，一件又一件手工馬仔，經過千錘百煉，出爐了。急不及待試試手勢，吃罷，果然名不虛傅，一片馬仔，拿起不散，入口鬆化，蛋香十足，吃完不膩，猶有餘韻，有料到。

可惜再好吃的馬仔，也被時代洪流沖散。90年代開始，大陸工廠開始大量生產馬仔，機器做，材料平，成本低，劣幣驅逐良幣，手做的，難以競爭，哪有位置？「但係問心，大陸嘢，食落口成口油，又散晒，邊有得比？」香港的廠，執一間，少一間，漸漸，順香園成了最後的守業者，昔日每天做十幾板，今天高達六十板，有理由懷疑，全香港愛手做馬仔的客人，都是吃它的。


生意雖好，但其實前路茫茫。手做馬仔是辛苦工，工時長，環境差，待在爐邊，夏天時高達攝氏40度，年輕人敬而遠之。無人入行，漸漸斷層，難以傳承。「但我會做落去，做得幾耐就幾耐。我個孫都成日同我講，爺爺，馬仔好食，有無馬仔食？」

時光荏苒，慶幸是，順香園的馬仔老而彌堅。

採訪：莫小巧
攝影：謝致中 梁兆麟
剪接：謝致中

順香園
地址：火炭山尾街23-25號宇宙工業中心4樓B座
營業時間：9am – 5:30pm

楊紹記
地址：上水石湖墟街市2樓 8-9 鋪
註：可買到順香園馬仔
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